6x8x16 concrete block install#

Do not use mortar for this test run since you’re only trying to get an idea of what you need. Lay out a course of concrete block on the dry footing. Drop a plumb bob at the cross point and about two feet out in each direction. The exact corner will be the point at which the two lines cross. Locate the exact corner by stretching lines from one corner form to the other. Step 4 - Prepare the Areaīefore starting to lay blocks, build a form at each corner by driving stakes made from scrap wood. Please note that these figures are based on a 3/8-inch mortar joint. A wall made with eight-inch blocks will require about 8 1/2 cubic feet of mortar per 100 square feet of wall (or 7 1/2 cubic feet per 100 blocks). You can also estimate your required number of blocks by figuring you’ll use three eight-inch blocks for every four feet on each course.įor mortar, 100 square feet of the wall made with four-inch blocks will require about 13 1/2 cubic feet (or about six cubic feet per 100 blocks). If you’re using 4x8x16, 6x8x16, 8x8x16, or 12x8x16 blocks, you will need about 112 and one-half blocks for completion. For every 100 square feet of wall, you will need about 225 4x4x16, 6x4x16, or 8x4x16 blocks. You can generally estimate the number of blocks and mortar you’ll need for a given project.

Step 3 - Plan the Number of Blocks and Mortar When the footing is poured and leveled, allow it to dry for a couple of days, three if it’s carrying a heavy load. Add more concrete to the low spots if necessary. Fill the form to the top edge and level the concrete by scraping a 2x4 across the top in a sawing motion. Then, to ensure your footing will be level, whether it’s big or small, place a level across the frame every eight feet and adjust the 2x4s by raising or lowering the stakes as needed. Larger footings will have to be poured in pieces, rather than all at once, so before proceeding, divide the total frame into smaller sections with 2x4s. Mark the depth and location of this utility opening on your foundation plan with a stake in order to easily locate it later. Four-inch drain tile will also often suffice. Be sure that your footing will not disrupt a natural runoff of water or divert the flow into a neighboring property.Ĭreate an opening to accommodate any gas, electric and water supplies you need by nailing four 2x8 boards in the proper position before pouring the footing. Then, backfill the drain line with one foot of crushed stone or gravel.

6x8x16 concrete block install#

If the area has drainage problems, install a line along the outer edge of the form, providing a one-inch drop for every 20-feet of the drain line. Use 2x4 boards to build the frame where you will pour the footing, and hold the boards in place with wooden stakes driven into the ground every three inches. So, if you are using eight-inch blocks, then the footing should be and 16-inches wide in order to provide a four-inch rim on either side of the block. It should also be two times the width of the wall as well, with the wall placed in the center. To be safe, you should probably dig a couple of inches below the known frost level in your area. When you pour a footing, the base should always reach below the frost line. Both block barbecue grills and outdoor fireplaces require a large concrete pad, so keep this in mind. Step 2 - Pour the FootingĮvery concrete block wall should be laid on a secure footing of poured concrete, regardless of height or length. Special blocks are also available for almost any building requirement. Sash blocks are good for casing windows, and header blocks provide a space for wooden supports or other structures.

When laying blocks for a doorway, make sure you use jamb joist blocks. Single and double corner units provide a smooth surface at the corner. Standard blocks are appropriate for most projects, with half-blocks with square or rounded corners usually installed at the end of a run. If you’re unsure of which type your job calls for, any home improvement sales associate should be able to help you select the correct ones.Įight-inch standard blocks are actually only 7 & 5/8-inches wide, which allows the mortar to expand while drying. These include two-core units, three-core units, steel sash units, wood sash (jamb) units, single bullnose units, capping units, header units, and return or corner angle units. Various types of concrete blocks exist to meet your needs in whatever project you have in mind.